In the skincare world, non-soap product manufacturers often claim that traditional soaps disrupt the skin’s acidic mantle, harm resident flora, and may contribute to skin problems. Are these claims fully supported by science, or are they influenced by marketing narratives? To uncover the truth, I examined how my skin responded to genuine soap after eliminating synthetic detergents from my routine. Through personal experience and research, I began to understand the more nuanced relationship between soap, skin pH, and skin health. (Learn about my journey overcoming decades-long transepidermal water loss (TEWL) click here.) Delve deeper into what real science reveals about soap and skin pH.
Skincare Ads vs. Real Experience
While relaxing in my living room, I’m often bombarded with ads promoting non-soap cleansers that promise to protect the skin’s natural flora, maintain its ideal pH, and leave it hydrated. However, my personal experience often contradicts these claims. How many people still find themselves reaching for lotions or body oils after a shower, even with these so-called hydrating cleansers? These ads often highlight select portions of scientific studies to support their claims, emphasizing pH as the sole determinant of skin health while often implying that traditional soap plays a central role in skin discomfort or imbalance.. Yet, scientific research paints a far more intricate picture, considering a range of factors that influence skin health beyond the oversimplified narratives presented in marketing.
It’s crucial to approach studies on skin health with a critical eye, as it’s easy for individuals or organizations to cherry-pick data to support a specific agenda. For example, some may selectively use parts of a study to claim that traditional soap is inherently damaging to the skin and its natural flora. However, to truly understand the effects of alkaline substances on the skin, it’s essential to examine the entire study in context. This comprehensive approach ensures a balanced perspective, highlighting both potential concerns and mitigating factors. Understanding the nuances allows for informed decisions about what may or may not negatively impact your own skin health, rather than relying on oversimplified or misinterpreted conclusions.
The pH of some syndets and soaps can be surprisingly similar, and in some cases both may reach very high pH values. Some syndet formulations have been reported at pH levels higher than those of many traditional soaps, which often fall closer to pH 9.
While the material below highlights the pH of syndets and soap, it is specifically geared toward individuals with an impaired stratum corneum (SC). As such, it promotes cleansers with a pH closer to the skin’s natural range (a pH of 5). However, in my personal experience, traditional soap with a pH around 9 was better tolerated by my skin than both liquid and bar syndet (synthetic detergent) cleansers.
Acta Derm Venereol 2013; 93: 261–267
REVIEW ARTICLE, Skin pH: From Basic Science to Basic Skin Care Saba M. Ali and Gil YoSIPoVITCH
Department of Dermatology, Wake Forest University Baptist Medical Center, Winston-Salem, USA
Understanding Studies on Soap and Skin pH
While materials comparing the pH of syndets and traditional soap often promote syndets and discourage the use of traditional soap, it’s essential to examine the studies cited in these claims critically. For instance, the one above reflects those with impaired skin would benefit from cleansers closer to the pH of the SC.
Some studies suggest that more alkaline substances can irritate the skin under certain conditions(normal skin without impairments). However, a closer look at these studies often reveals a significant limitation: the alkaline substances tested were not representative of traditional soap use.
In many cases, these studies involved applying highly alkaline substances to the skin—often with a pH much higher than that of traditional soap—and leaving them on the skin for extended periods, far beyond the few seconds soap typically remains during bathing. This methodology does not accurately reflect typical real-world soap use, where contact time is brief and the product is rinsed away.
Citing studies can be valuable, but it’s crucial to read the full context to understand how substances affect the skin and to recognize when a study’s design does not align with the way soap is typically used. Without this deeper analysis, conclusions about traditional soap’s impact on skin health can be misleading and designed to make pH the main and only factor of skin health.
What Actually Affects Skin pH?
Skin pH is not determined solely by the products we use. It is influenced by numerous factors, including:
Our bodies, functioning as finely-tuned laboratories, balance these elements to maintain homeostasis. Expand the toggles below to explore topics that interest you most.
The Gut-Skin Connection
Research suggests a meaningful connection between gut and skin health. Research describes a reciprocal relationship in which gastrointestinal health can influence skin stability and adaptability. For example, studies by Levkovich et al. (2013) and O’Neill et al. (2016) explore the interplay between gut health and skin homeostasis.. Explore this connection further here click here.
The Body’s Natural Buffers
Blood pH, an important physiological parameter, is tightly regulated by the lungs and kidneys. These systems, along with innate buffering mechanisms, help minimize pH fluctuations and support physiological balance. For further insight, see the Merck Manual’s overview of acid–base balance here., click here.
The human body functions as a finely tuned system, continually balancing multiple variables to maintain equilibrium. These studies underscore the intricate interconnectedness of our bodily functions. This relationship highlights how closely gut health and skin health can be connected.
Changes in skin or body pH can be influenced by what we consume (food and drink), inhale (airborne substances), and apply to the skin.
The body functions as a dynamic system, continuously working to regulate internal equilibrium. Its interconnected systems operate in tandem to keep physiological processes functioning within stable ranges:
Skin pH changes throughout life, reflecting shifts in the skin’s ability to support and maintain its protective barrier. In healthy newborns, the skin surface is naturally alkaline, with pH levels ranging from 6.34 to 7.5, as noted in Skin Physiology of the Neonate and Infant: Clinical Implications. Over time, this alkalinity transitions toward the more acidic range of approximately 5 to 5.5 typically observed in adult skin. The adjustment begins as early as the second day after birth, reflecting the skin’s rapid adaptation to life outside the uterus, where amniotic fluid maintains an alkaline pH of 7.1 to 7.3.
With advancing age, the skin’s capacity to regulate surface pH may gradually decline. Some studies suggest that by around age 50, epidermal pH may begin to rise, with further increases observed in older age groups (source click here).
These changes may reflect age-related shifts in the efficiency of skin barrier and pH-regulating processes.
Exposure to external factors—particularly substances with a higher pH than the skin surface—can temporarily shift skin pH upward. For example, standing under a shower with tap water—which in the U.S. typically has a pH around 7—causes can cause a temporary increase in the skin’s surface pH. However, this is not necessarily a cause for alarm. Unless an individual experiences specific skin sensitivities or conditions, there is no need to avoid showering or invest in filtration systems solely for this reason.
After gifting my 93-year-old aunt the soap I had made, she asked if she could use it on her face. She shared how much she enjoyed the gentle feel of the soap and its luxurious lather. Since we use our soap all over, including on our faces, I told her she certainly could. She was delighted to hear this and continued using it with great satisfaction. Her feedback added to my own observations about how well-balanced handcrafted soap can feel on aging skin.
A study titled The Long-Term Use of Soap Does Not Affect the pH-Maintenance Mechanism of Human Skin examined whether long-term soap use affects the skin’s ability to regulate pH.
A common belief is that soap-based cleansers permanently disrupt the skin’s natural pH and weaken its protective barrier. However, a long-term study comparing soap-based and mild-acidic cleansers provides a different perspective. This study observed two groups—one using soap-based cleansers and the other using mild-acidic cleansers, both for over five years. Skin pH was measured before cleansing, immediately afterward, and for six hours post-cleansing.
The results showed no statistically significant difference between the two groups in terms of baseline skin pH, pH immediately after cleansing, or the pH recovery rate. These findings suggest that healthy skin can maintain its pH-regulating ability following cleansing, regardless of whether a soap-based or mild-acidic cleanser is used.
For individuals with healthy skin, this study indicates that long-term soap use does not compromise the skin’s ability to regulate surface pH. While marketing materials often emphasize the advantages of mild-acidic cleansers, these findings highlight the resilience of human skin and its ability to recover naturally after cleansing.
Context Matters
It’s important to note that this research focuses solely on pH. Other factors, such as skin hydration, lipid composition, or microbiome diversity, were not addressed. For those with specific skin concerns or conditions, exploring how various cleansers affect other aspects of skin health remains essential.
The study challenges claims that soap’s alkaline nature permanently damages the skin’s pH balance, highlighting that these concerns are often unfounded marketing tactics by non-soap companies.
Healthy human skin typically has a surface pH of around 5. Cleansing with soap temporarily raises this pH, but it naturally reverts to a more acidic state within hours. The long-term impact of using soap on the skin’s ability to regulate its pH, however, has remained a topic of debate.
Source: “The Long-term Use of Soap Does Not Affect the pH-Maintenance Mechanism of Human Skin,” Y. Takagi, K. Kaneda, M. Miyaki, K. Matsuo, H. Kawada, H. Hosokawa, First published: 30 July 2014. Affiliation: Kao Corporation, Tokyo, Japan. PMID: 25073884 / DOI: 10.1111/srt.12170
In this study, long-term use of true soap did not interfere with the skin’s natural pH-regulating processes in healthy individuals.
Cleanser technology has evolved greatly, shifting from basic cleansing to providing added benefits like mildness and moisturization. The findings in this material resonate with my own experiences, particularly in understanding why I struggled with transepidermal water loss (TEWL) for most of my life. Research indicates that some harsh surfactants can damage skin proteins and lipids, which may lead to tightness, dryness, barrier disruption, irritation, and itching after washing. I switched to using shampoo, which typically contains milder surfactants designed for hair rather than skin, but even then, it was not gentle enough to prevent dryness for me.
For synthetic cleansers to offer skin-care benefits, they must first minimize damage to skin proteins and lipids. Next, they must deliver beneficial agents like occlusives, skin lipids, and humectants under washing conditions to improve hydration and skin properties. I prefer to superfat my soap, meaning I leave a tiny amount of unreacted oils in my soap to gently nourish my skin while washing. At first, this small amount of slip felt unusual, but now I don’t even notice it. Unlike many synthetic detergents, which are continually reformulated to reduce lipid disruption, my handmade soap has proven compatible with my skin and does not leave it feeling dry or tight. Plus, it brings that spa-like experience to my home—beautiful to look at and scented with fragrances that don’t trigger my allergies or asthma. Soap, unlike synthetic cleansers, naturally contains glycerin (a humectant), a byproduct of the saponification process.
Mildness enhancers and moisturizing agents such as lipids, occlusives, and humectants are often added to synthetic cleansers to reduce damaging interactions with skin proteins and lipids. However, in my case, I have not needed these additives, as my soap contains a small superfat and naturally occurring glycerin.
Based on my experience, I had to decide whether to continue using synthetic detergents that coincided with worsening TEWL, or to use traditional soap, which my skin tolerated far better. For me, traditional soap was the better choice.
A common question arises: does washing with alkaline, true soap harm the skin’s acidic mantle?
A reasonable assumption might be that true soap, with its higher pH, would elevate the skin’s pH. However, does this temporary rise lead to lasting damage or impair the skin’s ability to recover?
Skin, unlike hair, can recover and return toward its typical surface pH after temporary exposure to substances that raise pH levels. Depending on the duration of exposure and the degree of pH change, this recovery process may take several hours. It would stand to reason, then, that washing with alkali/true soap would increase skin’s acidic mantel. But, does this rise cause irreparable damage to the epidermis to where it cannot rebalance itself?
The information provided on this website is for educational and informational purposes only. It is intended to share general knowledge about traditional soapmaking, ingredient behavior, historical context, and manufacturing processes.
Nothing on this site is intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or medical condition. The products offered are classified as soap under FDA guidelines and are not intended to affect the structure or function of the skin or body. Individual experiences and preferences may vary.
Information presented here should not be considered a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. If you have a medical condition, skin concern, or sensitivity, please consult a qualified healthcare professional before using any product.
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